Recount the Exodus tastefully
Find out what wine to buy for your Seder
When you think about kosher wine for Passover, you probably think about a syrupy sweet concoction that grandmas sip in lieu of dessert. No need to be a Man-o-Manischewitz. Why cry over the poor quality of wine when there’s already enough saltwater at the table? Seder wine symbolizes enjoyment – it’s supposed to juxtapose the misery that Israelites felt as slaves, not cause misery to everyone around the table with its mediocre taste. So if you’d like to highlight the memory of tears, not obliterate it with sweetness, read on to discover choice tangy picks by local wine merchants. But first, some interesting tidbits about Passover wine. L’chaim!
Did you know?
• Kosher for Passover wine is made from a mold not grown on bread.
• All Israeli wines are kosher for Passover.
• Check the label for the P. to ensure that your kosher wine is for Passover.
• Only observant Jews can produce and process kosher wine with rabbi-approved equipment.
• If anyone other than an observant Jew opens and pours kosher wine, it loses its status. (See below item for exceptions.)
• Mevushal are kosher wines that are flash-pasteurized (heated to a near-boiling point). Unlike other wines, they can be handled by anybody. Hint: Consider what the process does to the quality, and put that bottle back on the shelf.
• The prophet Elijah prefers sherry. (Making sure you’re paying attention.)
• Around the middle of the 19th century, “wine” was still being made by soaking raisins in water and boiling down the liquid. Mmm, delicious!
• Ephraim Wales Bull saved us from embarrassment by developing the Concord grape that thrived in New England.
• If a guest is nostalgic for the taste of the wines of Seders long gone, pass him the sugar dish. Just a spoonful of sugar…. You know how it goes.
Our pros’ picks:
Elliott N. Fishbein, Town Wine & Spirits, 179 Newport Ave., Rumford, 401-434-4563
• Israel, Castel Winery, “C” Blanc Du Castel Blanc, 2011. “This wine has all the greatness to compete with the rich Burgundies of France. Polished, balanced, rich Chardonnay with just a beautiful touch of oak in the finish. A white wine that can handle brisket as well as chicken.”
• New Zealand, Goose Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, 2011. “This white sees no oak, so it presents itself with good acidity: crisp, clean and balanced.”
• Israel, Barkan Winery, Pinot Noir, 2011. “This is a beautiful soft red that goes with almost everything from matzah and eggs to chicken and salmon. The perfect red for light white meats. Fresh and lively with soft tasty spices.”
• Spain, Ramon Cardova Winery, Crianza, 2011. “A floral Tempranillo that will match up to that juicy brisket and is suited for mom’s chicken.”
Richard Backer, East Side Prescription Center, 632 Hope St., Providence, 401-751-1430
Backer has selected three red wines from Israel and one white from California. He says, “The Israeli wines are excellent wines that happen to be kosher.” Another advantage is their reasonable price. “The quality of these wines is comparable to [that of] their non-kosher counterparts.”
• Carmel Winery, Appellation Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009, “has a rich purple color with aromas of blackberry and plum. Full-bodied with a long and well-balanced finish. It pairs well with beef, veal or chicken.”
• Segal’s Fusion Red Blend, 2012, “is a fantastic value. It is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. It is a dry, medium-bodied wine, light tannins, moderate intensity with notes of black cherry, blackberry and plum. The wine will pair well with brisket, flanken, chicken or braised lamb.”
• Barkan Classic Pinot Noir, 2012, “is wine made from grapes grown in Israel’s high-desert vineyard of Mitzpeh-Ramon. The wine has unmistakable Pinot Noir aromas of strawberry, blackberry and mint. A light- to medium-bodied wine, it will pair well with veal, duck or salmon.”
• Weinstock’s White Blend W, 2009, “is a California wine produced by Weinstock Cellars. This is a medium-dry wine with lively aromas of grapefruit, elegant floral notes and white peach flavors.”
Eric Taylor, Bottles, 141 Pitman St., Providence, 401-372-2030
This store has recently completed its kosher wine selection for the holidays. Taylor says, “After being open for four years, we have learned which wines are best and what price points people are looking for. In addition, the selection of kosher wines in Rhode Island has increased and improved significantly – these are excellent wines that also happen to be kosher.” His picks are:
• Chile, Terra Vega Chardonnay, 2013
• Portugal, Grinalda Vinho Verde, 2012
• Galilee, Israel, Ariel Cabernet Sauvignon, 2011
• Bordeaux, France, Chateau Jaumard, 2011
IRINA MISSIURO is a writer and editorial consultant for The Jewish Voice.
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